Moulded bras are seamless and give great shaping to the breasts without making them look bigger. Padded bras have added cushion that adds volume to the cups and give push-up effect to small breasts.
You feel strain on your shoulders when the band of your bra is too loose as to not give you adequate support. This causes the weight of your boobs to be transferred to your shoulders thereby stressing them out. You should go for a smaller band bearing in mind also that the smaller the band size the bigger the cup size you should get. For instance, a 36F bra can be 34FF and if lower 32G if you are looking at reducing the band size.
If you have parts of your breasts spilling at the centre and sides and/or folding under the wire (you should never let this happen for health reasons) then your bra cup size is too small and you should go for a bigger cup while ensuring the band fits snugly around you. On the other hand, if you have spaces in the cups you should go for a smaller cup size.
The band is too loose. You should go for a smaller band. A quick guide is to take your girth measurement right underneath your bust where your band will normally fit and get a band size in the nearest even number up. If it is 33" for example then you should get a 34..... Bear in mind that you need to increase the cup size to accommodate the reduction in band size.
A lot of women have one breast bigger than the other so it's normal. You should work with the bigger breast to ensure you do not have that unsightly spill and your smaller breast will still be fine with a little space.
Really tight bras can make you very uncomfortable and in some cases, bruise your skin. Your bra should be firm and comfortable and you can be confident that it will still do its job of supporting you. Go for a bigger band having in mind to reduce the cup size accordingly. An example is to go for 32GG instead of 30H.
If you find your bust still 'looks down' under you clothes then you should check the band and cup size you are wearing. Also ensure that your straps are properly adjusted because this can affect the lift of your bra.
Every time you put them on, you should check that the straps are properly placed. This will ensure good lift and flattering look.
We all have different bust types and therefore you find that different cuts and moulds fit differently. The balcony bra fits most bust types so you can start your search from there. Good news is once you are able to identify your style of bra, it will look perfect with a fantastic feel and you should always make it your first choice.